Crossing by ferry from Auckland to Devonport offered a peaceful start to a slower-paced side of the city. The short ride provided wide views of the skyline fading behind me and the green slopes of Mount Victoria rising ahead. Once ashore, the charm of Devonport was immediate with tree-lined streets, small cafés, and restored colonial buildings hinting at its past as one of Auckland’s earliest European settlements.

A walk through the quiet town led to the base of Mount Victoria, the highest volcanic cone on Auckland’s North Shore. The hike up was steady, with grassy slopes and occasional views opening up between trees. At the summit, the view stretched across the harbor back toward Auckland, with sailboats dotting the water and Rangitoto Island anchored on the horizon.

Mount Victoria carries its share of history. In Māori tradition, the hill is known as Takarunga, meaning “The Hill Standing Above.” It was once a pā site, a fortified village used by the Tāmaki Māori. Later, in the 19th century, the summit was transformed into a military installation, with gun emplacements built to defend against potential Russian invasions, a fear during that period in colonial New Zealand.

Some of those defensive structures still remain, partially buried in the hillside, now painted in cheerful colors and used as platforms for admiring the view. Nearby, a large painted mushroom sculpture added a quirky touch to the otherwise serene setting.

After the descent, I returned to the waterfront for a coffee and a quiet seat near the ferry terminal. Devonport felt like a welcome pause: close to the city but rooted in its own sense of place. The hill, the harbor, and the streets all carried stories that lingered long after the ferry pulled away toward Auckland once again.